The train that brought us to Rome was late, empty, and immaculate.
Argument with cab driver over the fare, which I always lose.
Domino effect of late train: our landlord was no where to be seen in the midst of the medieval lanes off Piazza Farnese.
Rome, a spectacular 70-plus degrees (October 10th), blue sky in every direction.
First lunch in Rome at a neighborhood trattoria spilling out onto the lane: caccio e pepe and for me , bucatini all'amatriciana (with some herbs from the Spice Man), accompanied by Rosso di Montalcino 2006.
Their motto is ''l,acua fa malle...er vino fa canta!'' [Water makes you sick -- wine makes you sing.] So we sang all afternoon...
This may be our neighborhood hangout, Trattoria al Balestraria on the lane of the same name. 16th-century Rome at its most authentic.
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